In 1988, I had turned 30, been married 4 years and been a partner in my law firm 12 months. The Textiliste and I had undertaken a rather crazy project of refurbishing a house in Herne Hill, South London which, when we moved in, in January 1985, was an utter heap. By mid 1988 therefore we needed a holiday that didn’t involved plaster dust and Nitro Mors (which has to be singularly the most unpleasant substance I’ve yet to bring into contact with my skin, with the possible exception of shaking Tony Blair’s hand).
How do you choose your holidays? Is it by setting out criteria – sunshine, food, culture, must speak a language that doesn’t involve clicks, somewhere that doesn’t have more than 15 deadly poisonous mammals? We are influenced by what we see and, especially, read. For instance our on going love affair with all things Scottish and especially the Highlands and Islands comes directly from watching the film Local Hero.. cue music…
Sorry, very self indulgent, but Mark Knopfler is brilliant…
About this time, we had seen a TV adaptation of Elspeth Huxley’s autobiography, ‘The Flames Trees of Thika’ a beautifully written story of her childhood in Kenya, up there with Karen Blixen’s Out of Africa which came out in 1985 as film with Redford and Streep.
a flame tree
Reading both books told us exactly where we needed to go. East Africa and specifically Kenya and Tanzania.
The Falls at Thika – we came to them later in our trip…
I managed to blag my way to three weeks holiday, as did the Textiliste – I’m not sure either of us really know how – and in late September 1988 we boarded a British Airways flight to Dar Es Salaam, via Nairobi.
The Crater
As it happened the Aga Khan’s family was travelling in the front bit and there was the most enormous kerfuffle when they got off in Kenya. Lots of flunkies bowing and scrapping; enough to make you Republican, I always think.
Anyway, we arrived safely, were met by our guide and driver who, I think, was called Moses or Jesus or some such Biblical name. He was a cheery fellow who saw us to a hotel, for a night’s kip before we headed for the Ngoro-ngoro crater and our first taste of wildlife.
The crater is an extinct volcano and the wildlife in it, we were told, had been trapped there so it had developed somewhat separately from that living on the rest of the massive savannas that make up the Masai Mara and Serengeti game reserves.
At least that’s what I recall nearly 30 years on. Could be rubbish and, frankly, if you care enough to question it, there’s always Wiki…
It was spectacular. Today it would be phones but back then we had this rather splendid camera recommended by the Archaeologist.
It had lenses you changed and dials and numbers and SLRs and all sorts. I hadn’t a clue, if I’m honest but the Textiliste had researched it and we took some part way decent pictures, courtesy of her guidance.
In fact by the end of week one, I had listened to her instructions often enough to be confident in my own guidance. Back then, it seemed natural to pass on my new found knowledge; now I realise it is gratuitous mansplaining. And thus we men are educated in the error of our ways…
The one downside to life in the crater was the rather fragile nature of the power supply at the hotel. Twice it collapsed completely for 24 hours rendering the cooking non existent and the toilets unusable. We had treated ourselves but, at that point, camping appeared to have been a better option.
We had a ball. Well apart from the picnic where a kite took my cheese roll right out of my hand. Moses laughed and explained how lucky I was that the wretched bird hadn’t taken a bit of me at the same time. Of course I immediately saw the funny side…
But of course, it was the wildlife and the extraordinary scenery that made this trip. Here are a few images.
Next time: The Serengeti and Treetops
TanGental 
The pictures set the atmosphere. I loved the giraffe eating something at the 2nd story balcony.
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Yes I recall being told to get back inside as they do kick!!
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It’s fun to visit places you’ve seen in films or read about. Complete the story and makes the real experience have a long connection
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It really helps ground the memories. Thanks for the comment.
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That’s a lovely little article and the picture of the hippos and the one of the single lion are very good. Local Hero is one of my favourite films but now it makes me rather sad, not sure why! It’s funny what compels you to choose particular places to holiday in, isn’t it.
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Yes it would be interesting to unpick the reasons. And yes it is poignant name. Not sure why. Thanks. Hope you enjoy the rest.
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ps Had forgotten about our friend Nitromors! Nightmares more like….
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Shudders my hands will never be the same
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Congrats to the Textiliste
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Indeed a talent for sure
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Great pictures – she taught you well. Sounds like an amazing holiday and I look forward to visiting the Serengeti with you.
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Hope you enjoy. It brings back good memories. And she remains a stunning educator of dumb males!!
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Wonderful photos!!!!
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You know you want to go
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I spent most of my summers in Kenya… loved it!
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Ah of course! How could I forget I’m an amateur. You managed to take the kids yet?
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No… my one regret. Hopefully soon!!!! It’s a wonderful place!
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Yes and they’ll love you even more!!
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Here’s hoping!!!
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Oh, The Flame Trees of Thika and Out of Africa….. How I drooled over both for years. Best promotional material ever as far as I’m concerned. I finally went in the late 90s and it was like seeing in technicolor for the first time. Came home already planning the next trip. Not been back since 2007 (when the Mothership, bless them, allowed me 3 weeks holiday for my honeymoon). Now wondering what is the minimum optimal age for taking children on safari….
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Oh think of them as bait and you can go anytime… your headed on your blog is partly responsible for this series
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Fabulous photos and prose!
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Well you are a true flattterer… blushes
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I know , but you love it!!
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True a glutton
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What an outstanding post. Thanks for taking us there !
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Ooooooooooo such praise. *blushes. Hope you enjoy the rest
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Excellent pictures – still vibrantly coloured after all those years.
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Yes I was surprised how well they scanned. Glad you enjoyed
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Beautiful picture. It must have been a memorable visit.
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Oh yes it was brilliant
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I read ‘The Flame Trees of Thika’ back in the 60’s i believe – that book had a profound effect on me, I have never forgotten it. I didn’t know there was a movie, I feel somewhat deflated to think I missed out on that! Love that photo of the lion looking at you above the grass and the giraffe! Those are the kinds of memories that just get better with time aren’t they 🙂 .
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It’s a BBC film so that maybe why you missed it. The photos do bring back memories
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Wonderful pictures. I was living in Nairobi at that time and spent many a happy hour at Treetops, in the Mara and Tsavo game parks and the Serengeti. Our daughter, who grew up there, is going back to climb Kilimanjaro in just a couple of weeks, taking her husband who will have his first taste of sub-Saharan Africa. Look forward to your next post!
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Fab.. Maybe we saw you! I still have some soap stone carvings from a market in Nairobi. Do you remember the snake zoo? It was full of mambas and puff adders and so on and the glass of some viperiums were cracked!!
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I never went there, sounds potentially dangerous! But did go to the natural history museum many times which was full of all sorts of curiosities. We also lived in Zambia for about twelve years, saw plenty of snakes there (in the wild) mambas, both black and green, puff adders and cobras but they tended to avoid human habitation which was great! More worrying were the hunting spiders which were venemous and liked to get into the house. Ah! Happy days!
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So much nature!! Wow though those memories. Thanks for sharing Wendy
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I’ve never been to Africa and somehow I don’t think I ever will – but it’s an interesting continent. I look forward to your stories!
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Hopefully they will be fun. It’s a great memory jogger.
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Haven’t been, but have had my heart set on taking a balloon safari in Kenya. A nephew spent a year piloting one of those. It sounds possible for those of us with rickety parts. I enjoyed the photos and look forward to more. My son climbed Kilimanjaro and went on a safari some years ago. And my grandson and his wife just got back. A rhinoceros charged their jeep. Don’t know how they avoided damage. She was panicking and he was taking photos, which I hope to see. Thanks for taking me with you in the comfort of my house with heat and air and water. 🙂
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Pleasure Eileen. My parents celebrated their 50th wedding with a balloon ride in Egypt so I’m sure you’ll be up for it. And more to come for you to savour.
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Oh, my goodness. So close and personal. And the photos are mouthwatering. Someone had listened well and managed to capture fantastic photos. What an adventure. What an opportunity Sigh.
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Yes it was. I’d like to think we will do something similar sometime. Anyway on to part 2…
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The photos set the climate. I cherished the giraffe eating something at the second story overhang…
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Yes that was a treat wasn’t it. Look out for part 2
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Geoff, this is a glorious post, sweeping in scope and scenery – I loved the Flame Trees of Thika and great to find someone who remembers it so well and with love. What a fantastic trip you had, the photos have that awesome nostalgic atmosphere and the wildlife was abundant and SO close. I look forward to part 2!
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Coming soon Annika it was brilliant and scanning the photos has brought it all back!!
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Nice memories, Geoff 🙂 Well, apart from shaking Blair by the hand, that is!
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Yep I didn’t think I could be the only one not to.
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Lovely places and pictures! Staying in touch, for more wildlife photos! Following!
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really pleased you enjoyed! Thank you for the follow too
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